In the age of influencers and Instagram, it’s not sales that measure a brand’s success but it’s relevance to the scene. As streetwear takes over the fashion world more and more every year, it’s messaging is vital to making or breaking a brand.
Streetwear has always been about using graphics and style as a way to relay messages, whether in a political or social context, celebrating subcultures around the world. The voices of brands like Supreme and Off-White may be the loudest in the scene, but they are also ostensibly leaving "streetwear" behind and entering the hierarchy of haute-couture. Still, there are many other key players who are pertinent to maintaining the building blocks that streetwear was founded on. While our list may feature some heavyweight brands, it primarily highlights labels whose come-ups are nothing less than awe-inspiring.
Our list includes LA-based brand BornxRaised and their fight against gentrification; Japanese brand Doublet's playful embroidered pieces; Keith Hufnagel's revival of gritty 90’s skate brand Metropolitan USA; MISBHV’s post-soviet-rave-influenced unique cut and sew pieces; Supreme’s ex-Creative Director Brendon Barbenzien brand NOAH, Japanese retailer BEAMS, who just celebrated their 40th anniversary; and many more.
In celebration of DIY culture, we’ve put together a list of some brands making strides for their communities. From Tokyo to NYC and everything in between, get to know some of the hottest streetwear brands right now.
BornxRaised
BornxRaised’s ideology exemplifies the definition of counter-culture from its heritage to its design. Fueled by the frustration of gentrification in their hometown of Venice, CA, Spanto redirected this into a message of radical authenticity. An early graphic of the brand, which attracted Spanto’s now partner Alex (2tone) bared a Native American chief with the words “Gentrification is Genocide,” encircled around it. Every design, lookbook, and video draws on the harsh realities they faced during some of LA’s gang injunctions. Their struggles growing up contrast the perfect paradise many perceive LA to be, however, without these hardships they would not be who they were born and raised to be today.
The brand’s consistent revolutionary messaging, invoking videos, and shock value graphics makes BornxRaised one of the hottest streetwear brands to watch in 2018.
Check out their current offerings here.
Doublet
Seeing much success in 2017, Doublet’s domestic Japanese quality found international retailers. Debuted at Tokyo Fashion Week, Designer Masayuki Ino displayed his exuberant casual wear line to the masses - a combination of embroidery, bright colors, skewed graphics, and textured fabrics set Doublet apart. It’s playful uniqueness lead to collaborations with the likes of 424 and Dover Street Market - it even caught the eyes of rapper Travis Scott.
Now, Doublet is back with its high concept SS18 “UNDEAD – STOCK” collection. Built on the idea of reworked garments, Doublet used a unique series of techniques, such as wrinkling, fray embroidery and patching to express the combination of “UNDEAD” and “DEADSTOCK,” items. The seasonal range includes closet staples with a boyish flair, staying true to their “strangest comfort,” motto. From patch denim, PVC rain jackets, graphic tees - these edgy looks are captured in a gritty new lookbook.
View the full season here.
Metropolitan USA
It was January of last year that skate icon Keith Hufnagel announced he’d be reviving Metropolitan USA - a 90’s skate label he was a part of long before HUF. The label was originally founded by DLX Distribution in 1994 with an impressive lineup skaters. A milestone of NYC’s gritty skate scene, Metropolitan reunites some of the original team members including Ari Marcopolous, Gino Iannucci, Mike Hernandez and Bobby Puelo for their new 2018 collection.
Dropped just a few days ago, the brand unveils skate staples every rider should have. Some notable items include the half-camouflage varsity jacket as well as a classic logo camo face mask. The collection is also comprised of sentimental graphic t-shirts, long sleeves, branded hoodies, and caps - all-embracing a gritty color palette reflective of the brand’s roots.
Check out Metropolitan's full drop here.
BEAMS
Starting as a small shop in the of Harajuku district of Tokyo in 1976, BEAMS is now celebrating its 40th anniversary. One of Japan’s most innovative retailers, the brand’s head-turning collaborations has attracted the likes of Nike, Adidas, Reebok, Champion, Levi’s, Playboy and more.
BEAMS recent success was captured by Rizzoli in the recently released BEAMS: Beyond Tokyo. Filled with its most iconic moments, captured by renowned photographers such as Mark Borthwick and Terry Richardson, as well as sketches and essays, the book offers an exclusive look into the four decades of BEAMS.
Their last drop is a two-piece sports capsule in collaboration with Champion - but with four decades under in their belt, we expect more exciting projects from BEAMS in 2018.
Noah
Brendon Barbenzien left his position as Creative Director for Supreme two years ago to relaunch his brand NOAH, which was founded in 2007. While adding retailers like Dover Street Market and SSENSE to its stockists, NOAH has just recently added another flagship store in Tokyo called NOAH CLUBHOUSE.
Beyond its mark in the fashion scene, the label takes a steady stance on social and environmental injustices. Like most streetwear, Barbenzien uses clothing as a vehicle to express its opinions, even releasing an official statement on why they’re packaging sucks. NOAH’s transparency is refreshing and their impact has been positive proving that Barbenzien is well on his way to building another legacy.
NOAH’s last editorial drop was for Winter 2017 titled “Winter Break,” which means SS18 should be around the corner. You can shop their recent collection here.
Chinatown Market
Inspired by New York’s historic Canal Street, Michael Cherman’s Chinatown Market is a new brand built on parody aesthetic. Incorporating pop culture’s past and present, Chinatown Market is truly a millennial brand - from the Kim Kardashian “Click Bait,” tee to logo rips of Fruit of the Loom and Blockbuster, CM’s ubiquitous smiley face has been popping up everywhere.
Chinatown Market’s most recent drop is an HBX-exclusive, heavily referencing some classic cartoon characters like Mickey Mouse, Felix the Cat, and The Pink Panther. The brand’s quick wit and nostalgia-inducing items are sure to remind you of simpler times.
Check out their current drop available exclusively on HBX.
Fear of God
It’s been a big year for Fear of God - from collaborations with KITH, Vans, Jay-Z, Offset, and now the forthcoming partnership with Nike, Jerry Lorenzo’s FOG is one of the coolest brands around right now. Rumors of the Nike collaboration were swirling around the internet, but Lorenzo confirmed the partnership just a few days ago.
Inspired by the 90’s grunge scene, FOG’s items merge punk, skate and hip-hop influences. Popular items include satin varsity jackets, flannel shirts, plaid pants, distressed denim, and a broad selection of cozy wear.
With the Nike collaboration now confirmed, we’re eagerly awaiting to see Lorenzo’s hot take on a Nike classic. This will be the brand’s sixth footwear collection, having dropped their fifth, for both men and women, earlier this week.
MISBHV
MISBHV is a Polish streetwear brand that has been popping up at some of the world’s most fashionable stores. From 424 on Fairfax to VFiles in NYC, MISBHV made its catwalk debut this year at NYFW. Due to its geographical location, MISBHV is often grouped together with Russian brand Gosha Rubchinskiy, generalized by writers and buyers alike. However, Natalie Maczrek and co-designer Thomas Wirski’s pieces are truly unique and should not be overlooked.
A mixture of post-soviet flair, Eastern European punk, and 80’s fantasy, MISBHV draws from 2000’s club culture. Seen on the likes of Rihanna, Bella Hadid, A$AP Rocky and more - MISBHV occupies the space between luxury and avant-garde.
Influenced heavily by DIY and rave culture, Wirski and Maczek’s drive comes from the lack of access to Western clothing growing up. "Everything we did so far we learned ourselves. A lot of the times we talk about the DIY process because this is what we grew up around. If we wanted to make a pair of trousers, we had to learn ourselves.” Wirski tells Fashionista magazine.
NEIGHBOURHOOD
Offering a huge amount of streetwear staples in their SS17 collection, Japanese label NEIGHBORHOOD has been packing some heated collaborations. From Bape to Burton to Adidas and now N.E.R.D., NEIGHBORHOOD has dropped some of the most sought-after pieces of 2017.
Previously only available at ComplexCon, NEIGHBORHOOD’S co-branded N.E.R.D. collection includes minimalist caps, incense chambers, t-shirts, and more.
What sets NEIGHBORHOOD apart is its variety of offerings - while they carry many of the basic graphic tees and caps, they also have a wide selection of winter goods from military-wear to heavy-duty snowboarding jackets, accessories and beyond. They even teamed up with fellow Japanese brand BAPE to released two exclusive Rolex watches as part of a collaboration last year.
GOLF
While golf might be Tyler, The Creator’s least favorite sport, his label Golf Wang is a play on his hip-hop collective OFWGKTA. Opening his first brick and mortar location on Fairfax in October 2017, Tyler, the Creator’s GOLF brand has been highly anticipated by Odd Future fans.
His latest collection is full of bold colors, eye-catching patterns, and many pop-culture influences. Much like the rapper’s flows, Golf Wang separates itself with its dark and dissident humor while still clinging on to Tyler’s brazen childhood. The brand’s last release came just in time for the holidays, featuring puffer jackets, “Punk Face,” hats, colorful golf inspired pants, and more.
The Golf Wang shop is currently offline, it leads us to think that the brand will be dropping an exciting release soon.